Anything that carries water or gas is a plumber’s job. Anything that carries power belongs to an electrician, and where the two meet at the same fixture, the electrical side gets made safe first. If you’re still stuck choosing between a plumber or electrician, ring the plumber. A good one will tell you over the phone whose job it is, and asking costs nothing. That rule settles most calls in Brisbane, Logan, Ipswich and Gold Coast homes. Hot water systems and water dripping through a light fitting are where people get stuck.
Key takeaways
- A tap or metal fixture that tingles is an electrical fault. Call Energex before touching it.
- Water through a light fitting needs both trades, plumber first to stop the leak and electrician second to clear the fitting.
- Power light on but no hot water? Look at the element or thermostat inside the unit, not the pipes.
- On renovations, the plumber usually roughs in first, since pipes and drains have fixed runs and cable can bend around them.
- Older homes hide things. Camera the drains and test for asbestos before anyone cuts.
Should I call a plumber or an electrician?
Call a plumber for water, waste and gas. Call an electrician for power, and if you can’t tell which side the fault sits on, start with the plumber.
Most people arrive at this question holding a symptom, not a cause. A brown stain spreading across the hallway ceiling. A safety switch that drops every evening around the time the kids shower. Neither tells you much on its own, and a two-minute phone call where you describe what you’re seeing and when it started will usually sort out who should come.
Some symptoms only ever point one way. A toilet that gurgles when the bath empties is drainage. So is a sewer smell that turns up after heavy rain, which in older Brisbane suburbs tends to mean an ageing clay line or a gully trap that has lost its water seal. No electrician can help with either.
Power problems look different. Flickering lights, a warm power point, a breaker that trips the moment the kettle goes on, a hot plastic smell near the switchboard. Those stay electrical even when they happen in a wet area.
Some jobs straddle both trades by design. In Queensland, a plumber who also holds a restricted electrical licence can disconnect and reconnect the power on a like-for-like hot water swap, so one visit covers the plumbing and the electrical connection at the unit. A business with licensed plumbers and electricians under the same roof removes the “who goes first” question entirely, because the sequencing happens in their office instead of your hallway.
Water is coming through a light fitting. Who do I call?
Both trades. The plumber finds and stops the water, then an electrician checks the fitting and circuit before the light is used again.
Turn the lighting circuit off at the switchboard if you can reach it without standing in water. Leave the wall switch alone.
Then look straight up. During summer storms across Brisbane and the Gold Coast, the most common source is a box gutter or downpipe that can’t keep up. Rainwater backs up under the roof sheets, runs along a ceiling joist and drops out through the easiest exit it finds, which is often the hole cut for a downlight. A blocked downpipe or stormwater line at ground level makes this worse, because the gutters above have nowhere to empty and simply overflow inward.
Pipes inside the ceiling are the next suspect, mainly in older homes where water lines were run through the roof space. These leak slowly. The first sign is usually a stain, and by the time it drips, the plasterboard has been soaking for weeks.
Two-storey homes add the bathroom upstairs. A failed shower waste, or a floor waste that still holds water ten minutes after a shower, lets water sit against the waterproofing membrane long enough to find any weak point in it. Water from there tracks down to the nearest ceiling penetration below, and light fittings are exactly that.
Once the leak is stopped, get an electrician to open the fitting before the light goes back on. Moisture hangs around in junction boxes well after the ceiling looks dry.
A tap tingles or gives me a shock: plumber or electrician?
Electrician, no question, and call Energex first. A tingle means current is somewhere it shouldn’t be, and in South East Queensland Energex asks to be told straight away on 13 19 62 because the fault can sit in the supply to the house.
Don’t grab a metal tap or stopcock to shut the water off. If the switchboard is reachable without touching anything wet or metal, turn the main switch off. Then make the call.
The usual culprit is an earthing fault. Many older homes were earthed through their metal water pipes, and that earth path breaks when a section of copper gets replaced with plastic during an unrelated repair. Nothing seems wrong for months, sometimes years. Homes without safety switches (RCDs) on every circuit carry more risk, and a fair number of pre-1990s Queenslanders still have unprotected circuits.
A plumber should keep well clear until the electrician has found and fixed the fault. After that, any pipework replacement can go ahead with the earthing already sorted independently of the pipes.
No hot water: plumber or electrician?
Check the unit first. Whether you need a plumber or electrician for a hot water system comes down to where the fault is, and if the switch or power light on an electric unit still comes on while the water stays cold, the fault is inside the unit.
That usually means the heating element or the thermostat. Neither is a pipe problem, and a plumber won’t always be the one repairing it. On a unit still under warranty, the manufacturer’s own service technician is normally the person sent out. On an older unit, replacement is often the more sensible spend. Give a plumber the brand and roughly how old the system is, and they can tell you which way to go before anyone visits.
A safety switch that trips while the water heats points to an element leaking current to earth. Leave the unit off until an electrician has looked at it.
Solar hot water has more moving parts. The rooftop collectors and the tank are plumbing. The electric or gas booster that does the heavy lifting through a wet February week is a separate system, and a booster fault is a common reason a solar unit goes lukewarm after three overcast days while the panels themselves are fine.
Gas units with no ignition or a pilot that won’t stay lit need a licensed gasfitter, and many plumbers hold that licence.
Living around a broken hot water system costs money every day it goes unfixed, between boiling kettles and running appliances on their hottest cycles to compensate.
My house is old. What should I check before work starts?
Put a camera through the drains and get walls and ceilings tested for asbestos before anyone cuts. What you can see in an older home is rarely the worst of it.
Previous owners’ DIY fixes live inside walls, and you usually meet them halfway through a job. Galvanised steel joined straight onto copper is a classic. The two metals react where they touch, the joint corrodes from the inside, and the damage stays hidden until pressure drops or the fitting starts to weep.
Underground is its own story. Suburbs built before 1980 across Brisbane sit on earthenware sewer lines with mortar joints, and jacaranda and fig roots have been working into those joints for decades. A pan-and-tilt CCTV inspection shows where roots have entered, whether any section has cracked or sagged, and whether the line still holds its fall. Should the camera find cracked clay under a driveway or slab, relining the pipe from the inside usually beats excavation, and knowing that before a renovation pours new concrete over the top saves breaking it out later.
Some pipes in old houses carry neither water nor gas anymore. Decommissioned gas pipe was sometimes reused as electrical conduit, so treat any unfamiliar pipe as potentially live until someone has traced it.
Queensland homes built before 1990 may contain asbestos in wall sheeting, eaves and wet-area linings. The Queensland Government’s asbestos guidance is clear that testing comes before cutting, whichever trade is holding the saw.
Renovating a kitchen or bathroom: which trade goes first?
The plumber, in most cases. An electrician can route cables around pipes far more easily than a plumber can reroute pipes around cables.
Pipes follow fixed runs. Drains need fall, a steady downhill grade set out under AS/NZS 3500 so waste keeps moving, and new pipework has to be secured to the structure at set intervals. Cable goes almost anywhere.
Unsafe wiring changes the order. If existing wiring is damaged or old enough to worry anyone, the electrician comes in first to make it safe, the plumber does the rough-in, and the electrician returns at the end for fit-off.
The question of electrician or plumber first mostly disappears when both trades stand in the gutted room together on day one. Twenty minutes settles where the dishwasher waste runs and where its power point sits. Trades who turn up without that conversation tend to get in each other’s way, and the homeowner pays for the second visit.
Corroded pipe and capped dead-end lines should be dealt with while the walls are open. A dead leg sealed behind new tiles holds stagnant water and can let go years later, and fixing it then means taking the tiles off.
When the trades disagree on sequence, safety decides. A serious electrical fault can kill someone or burn a house down. Water damage can nearly always be repaired.
Electricians’ most common complaint about plumbers is cut cables, so any plumber cutting into a wall, ceiling or slab should check for live wiring first with a detector, and isolate the circuit if there’s any doubt.
Who handles dishwashers, washing machines, aircon and strange smells?
Situation | Call | Why |
Dishwasher install | Plumber | Water supply and waste connection; electrician only if there’s no power point nearby |
Washing machine won’t spin or won’t start | Appliance technician | A fault inside the machine |
Washing machine drains but the laundry tub or standpipe overflows | Plumber or drainage specialist | A partial blockage further down the line |
Split system aircon install | Licensed installer (electrical plus refrigerant licence) | Power circuit and refrigerant handling |
Aircon condensate dripping down the wall | Installer or plumber | Blocked condensate line; connection to a drain is plumbing work |
Gas smell | Leave the house, call your gas distributor’s faults line (on your gas bill) or 000 | Then a licensed gasfitter |
Burning or hot plastic smell | Electrician; 000 if there’s smoke | Overheating wiring or fittings |
The overflowing laundry tub is the one people misread. Washing machines pump out fast, and a drain that copes with a sink can’t always take a full load at speed, so the tub filling from below is often the first warning of a blockage building between the laundry and the boundary trap.
Talk to a drainage specialist
If the problem sits in a drain, sewer or stormwater line, SEQ Blocked Drains can book a CCTV inspection or a same-day call-out across Brisbane, Logan, Ipswich and the Gold Coast. We’re drainage specialists, so if you ring and it turns out to be a hot water or wiring job, we’ll tell you that on the phone and point you to the right trade.
FAQs
A plumber, for the water and waste connections. You only need an electrician if there's no power point within reach of the cabinet.
Only within the limits of a restricted electrical licence, which covers disconnecting and reconnecting equipment like a hot water system on a like-for-like replacement. New circuits, power points and switchboard work stay with a licensed electrician.
Electrician. Something is leaking current to earth, and in bathrooms the usual suspects are a water-damaged light or fan, a hot water element on the way out, or moisture in a fitting from a slow leak above. If a leak turns out to be the cause, a plumber comes in afterwards to fix the source, but the switch tripping is the electrician's to diagnose first.
Neither, at first. Get everyone outside, don't touch light switches, and call your gas distributor or 000.
A plumber or drainage specialist. Under-house water in a Queenslander after a storm usually traces back to stormwater that isn't getting away, either a blocked downpipe connection or a stormwater line that has cracked or silted up.